Saturday, December 16, 2017

HAPPY BUDDHAS: Vietnam Travelogue (Part 1 – Commerce)

19-20 November 2017 (Sunday and Monday)

I park my car at work around 8:00 a.m. on Sunday.  The shuttle driver is early, and I’m his last pick up.  So I arrive at LAX with time to spare.  Just how I like it.

I mention to the agent at China Southern Airlines that this will be my longest flight to date, and he offers me an emergency exit row for the 14-hour flight.  Much more leg room and ready access to the aisles and bathrooms.  Score.

I sleep much of the way.  I can’t read without dozing, so my book, Why Does The World Exist? by Jim Holt, goes untouched.  The provided headphones are impossible.  I can’t hear dialogue clearly.  I try watching “The Trip to Italy” but haven’t a clue what they’re saying.  Instead I watch “Guardians of the Galaxy,” because I’ve seen it already.

The flight to Guangzhou goes on and on.  At the 7½ hour mark I realize I’m only half way there.

We land in southern China 15 minutes late due to turbulence en route, so it’s a frantic scramble for the connecting flight to Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon).  That flight is delayed as well, so we arrive in Vietnam around 10:30 p.m. local time on 20 November 2017.  The customs line is a grind.  Weary passengers (myself included) jockey from one line to the next when the first line stalls.

Our tour manager Hai meets us outside baggage claim.  My luggage arrives without incident.  The next day I learn that an elderly Chinese woman on my flight had her luggage left in Guangzhou.  (Happy ending – the luggage arrives the next day.)  While waiting for the tour group to gather a pleasant taxi driver tries to drum up business.  He seems unable (or unwilling) to grasp that each of us already have transportation to the hotel.

Check in at the Saigon Prince Hotel is quick, but I dread the 6:00 a.m. wake up call (it’s 2:00 a.m. when I crawl into bed) in order to make breakfast before the early morning tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels.

Not sure if it’s the jet lag or the constant sleeping/dozing on the flights but my sleep is restless.  Also it takes me several tries to figure out the A/C in the room.  Despite sweltering temps outside my room is chilly.  My foot keeps cramping.  I get about 2 hours of sleep on and off before the wake-up call at 5:45 a.m.(?)!  I showered the night before; otherwise I would have been very unhappy – and smelly.

21 November 2017 (Tuesday)

Breakfast is hearty.  I’m famished and wolf down eggs, noodles, beans, fruit and cereal with yogurt.  I’m surprisingly bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for the tour.  We’re set to depart at 7:15 a.m. but delayed due to the elderly Chinese woman.  Her son has to go to her room to fetch her.

The optional Cu Chi Tunnels tour is the one I’m most interested in.  The tunnels were used by the Viet Cong to escape detection by South Vietnamese Army (SVA) and US forces.  Our tour manager Hai is a Saigon native and has very personal opinions about the war.  For him it was a great tragedy for the people of Vietnam.  He believes the war has been misnamed.  The least correct names (in his opinion) are the Vietnam War (by the US) and the American War (by the Vietnamese).  A more accurate term (again, in his opinion) is the Civil War, but he prefers the term Ideological War -- a war to secure power through ideology.  He has no love for the Viet Cong but he certainly (and justifiably) admires their strategy and determination.

The Cu Chi tour highlight is watching a Viet soldier drop down into a tunnel through a tiny opening.  I’m claustrophobic just watching.  We are offered a chance to crawl 60 feet through a tunnel.  I demur, fearing a panic attack and unwilling to aggravate my bad right knee.  A couple men younger and shorter than me complain about the experience as they exit.  I made the smart move.

We drive to Saigon for lunch and a brief city tour, which is anticlimactic after Cu Chi.  Near tour’s end we stop at a local tile manufacturer.  I skip it and hang out at a nearby park.  Several tour members express interest in the War Remnants Museum instead of visiting the local market.  We alter the plan after a vote.  A fortuitous decision as a heavy squall moves in.  The museum is harrowing, though certainly lopsided in its viewpoint.  It is the unexpected highlight of the city tour.

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Side Note:  Hai explains that Vietnam is divided into 3 regions.  The southern region, primarily the Mekong Delta and Saigon, represent the country’s commerce.  The central region with Hoi An and Hue, represents the country’s culture.  And the northern region, primarily Hanoi, represents the country’s political center.

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We have a brief group meet and greet at the hotel, then off for dinner on our own.  Across the street a music festival is about to begin.  The road is blocked off, so it’s safer to walk.  Pedestrians look for a break in traffic then step into the road and press forward at a consistent speed.  Surprisingly no one seems to get hit, though it’s disconcerting to have motorbikes weave around you.  In a city of 12 million people there are 8 million motorbikes, and most are on the road or parked on the sidewalk at any given time.

I have a filling meal of seafood noodles at Nha Hang Ngon, a restaurant specializing in street food.  Afterward I walk to the Rex Hotel (recommended by a co-worker who had visited not long ago) and have a Saigon By Night (the Vietnamese equivalent of a Mint Julep) at the rooftop bar.  It’s easy to imagine diplomats after the heat of the day plotting over drinks and dinner while enjoying the cooler evening breeze.  As I sip my drink a Viet band play a guitar cover of Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game.”  As I leave they break into a rousing vocal cover of Elton John’s “Crocodile Rock.”

The street fair is in full swing as I make my way back to the hotel.  Hai had mentioned earlier that Gate 1 tried to get rooms at the Continental, but that hotel was full.  As I ride up to the 8th floor I still hear the pounding beat of the musical acts.  Now it’s clear why the Continental was full and the Royal Saigon not.  The music ends shortly after 10:00 p.m.  It’s a school night after all.

Before bed I shower and start packing for tomorrow’s flight to Da Nang.  I hope for more sleep tonight than last night.  Until tomorrow…

22 November 2017 (Wednesday)

I sleep much better after mastering the temperature gauge in the room.  After a hearty breakfast I finish packing then check out.  We bus to the airport for the in country flight to Da Nang.  Traffic is lighter than before, and we make it in plenty of time.  We check in as a group then wait.  I grab an egg sandwich to stow in my bag after Hai informs us that there may not be much time for lunch after we arrive.

During the wait I chat with two couples from Flagstaff – Tom & Anne and Mike & Lana.  Tom had gained notoriety the day before by wandering out of the Cu Chi site without telling anyone.  His wife, Anne, and Hai looked all over for him.  After about 15 minutes the group went outside to find Tom waiting by the bus.  Anne confirms this is not the first time Tom has gone missing.  It will not be the last.  I also chat with Ana Maria who, though nice, announces that all news is biased and that Puerto Rico is not nearly as devastated as media reports would have us believe.  The reports are political.  I consider mentioning that my boss’ sister lives in Puerto Rico and can back up the reports but don’t feeling like having that debate.

For the 1+ hour trip the inflight monitors play a French version of “Candid Camera” over and over.  The first 15 minutes are amusing, but after 45 minutes the formula gets tired.  Somehow I manage to lose my water bottle while departing the plane.

As we bus to Hoi An, the streets become narrower.  The region feels like a rustic version of the Napa Valley but with more motorbikes, cyclos and bicycles.  Or Cambria with more humidity.

We arrive at the Hoi An Trails Resort, a beautiful enclave off the bustling street not far from Old Town.  My room is spacious, with floors of dark wood.  It’s far more space than I need.  The rain begins just in time for our Old Town walking tour.

I suspect Hoi An at night has considerable charm.  However any charm is overwhelmed by the crush of tourists on foot, motorbike, cyclo and bicycle.  Add to that all the oversized umbrellas for the rain, and you have the recipe for a circle of Hell Dante might recognize.  I miss much of Hai’s narrative as I tried to dodge tourists and motorbikes on the narrow streets.  Inside it’s drier but not much better.  Sodden tourists crowd like packed sardines.  It’s a relief to go out onto the rainy street to find our dinner spot.

Somewhere between our last tour stop and the restaurant Tom disappears again, causing much consternation.  (It turns out that, against Hai’s earlier admonition, Tom had stopped in a shop to buy a rain poncho.  By the time he finished the transaction, the group had disappeared up an alleyway.)  Hai and Anne spend much of the dinner looking off the balcony at the wet street below.  (After searching the streets for some time Tom had taken a cab back to the hotel.)  Hai gives Anne a takeaway meal for Tom.

The dinner is lovely.  I sit at a table with two other non-meat eaters, Rike (pronounced “Ricky”) and Pam, which gives us the opportunity to bond as such.  There is more political talk, so I tune out until the subject moves on.  A significant reason to leave the U.S. for a couple of weeks is to avoid exactly these types of conversations.

I am not a mango fan, but the mango served with the dessert is stunning.  I will now only eat mango in Vietnam.  So I may never eat mango again.

Some stay to explore Old Town while most head back to the hotel.  Tomorrow is my food walking tour with XO Tours.  I’m to meet the tour guide at the Hoi An Theater, so I ask Hai how far away it is.  It’s in Hoi An proper (not Old Town), so I will need to cab it.  I will check with reception tomorrow to arrange transportation.

I use the hotel computer to email XO Tours my room number, which they may need in case they have to cancel due to rain.  A few days ago the Thu Bon River overflowed its banks, flooding a significant portion of Old Town.  Back in the room I hope to write in my journal but promptly pass out.  The jet lag has caught up with me.  Until tomorrow then…

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